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Univar Solutions presents...ingredients from Cargill Beauty

Cargill Beauty offers a diverse portfolio of nature-derived ingredients, with a responsible supply chain, fully integrated processes and application expertise.

Univar Solutions offers a range of ingredients on behalf of Cargill Beauty, including:

Vegetable oil
Starch
Carrageenan
Xanthan
Scleroglucan

Product Lines

Actigum™ VSX20 - Bio-fermentation: a way to explore efficient and eco-conscious cosmetic products.

COSMOS approved, cold processable slightly anionic biopolymer, combination of sclerotium and xanthan gum. This biopolymer is obtained through a process of aerobic fermentation of sugars with strains of non-GMO Sclerotium rolfsii and Xanthomonas campestris. Sources in the fermentation broth are of 100% vegetable origin: wheat and sugar beet.

This biopolymer is a performant versatile texturizer: effective viscosity builder, performant suspensive agent (≥0.3% dose) and emulsion stabilizer that contributes a very pleasant, light, smooth, and slightly fresh sensoriality to formulations. It has sprayable properties and creates translucent gels. It is stable in a wide pH range (3-12) and has a broad compatibility profile (electrolytes, surfactants, alcohol, preservatives and high temperatures) which makes it suitable for use in a wide range of applications. It may be used alone or in combination with other texturizers to give original textures.

High shear is necessary to fully develop the desired properties of the sclerotium gum family and thus they must be dispersed using a homogenizer R/S type equipment: Silverson L5M-A (5000rpm, 5min) and Ultra Turrax T25 (12000rpm, 15-20min). Cold process is possible, heating (80°C) will only make faster the deployment of the polymer. In emulsions Actigum™ VSX 20 can be either dispersed in the water phase or in the oil phase (similar viscosity and particle size). When dispersed in water, preblending Actigum™ VSX 20 in glycerin is recommended to avoid lump formation.

Bio-fermentation process is a low carbon foot-print solution. By selecting the right micro-organism and the right substrate, possibilities are limitless. A wide range of actives are coming from bio-fermentation like radiance enhancers, energizers and wrinkle fillers but we see more and more complex functional ingredients emerging in the beauty and personal care market for playing on the texture, stabilizing, emulsifying or to improve performance (solubilizer, deposition aids) of different products.

Applications

Skin Care
Sun Care
Hair Care
Toiletries
Color Cosmetics

Grades

Highly efficient thickener
Performant suspending agent (≥0.3% dose)
Emulsion stabilization aid
Sensory enhancer
Sprayable properties
Cold/hot processable
Dose of use: 0.1-2.0%
Stable at a broad pH range (3-12)
Broad compatibility profile
COSMOS approved
Halal, Kosher
Made in France
100% nature derived*
Readility biodegradable**
Vegan Suitable***

* According to ISO 16128

**According to OECD 301B

***The responsibility of vegan claim lies with the cosmetic manufacturer.

Characteristics

INCI Name: Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum
Off-white powderCosmos Aprroved
Natural Origin Index: 1*
Readily Biodegradable**

* According to ISO 16128

**According to OECD 301B

Agri-pure AP-20 MB - Cargill has pioneered a sustainability standard in the Philippines since 2011.

Cargill has an ongoing with the target to set a sustainable coconut oil chain of custody, thanks to approx. 1.100 farmers and a Mass Balance model from farm to refineries certified by Rainforest Alliance. The benefits for the farmers are improved yield & farm management, diversified & greater income, and better market access -- in a nutshell, an improved livelihood.

Applications

Hair-care
Lip balm, Lipstick, Pencils
Make-up, Mascara
Skin-care
Sun-care
Toiletries / Deodorant

Grades

Quick melting due to low melting range
Light & silky afterfeel with high filming
High oxidative stability

Characteristics

INCI name: Cocos nucifera oil (EU) or Cocos Nucifera (coconut) Oil (US & China)
Appearance: butter like
Use level : 5-10%

STARDESIGN™ Ultra Sensory enhancer made from corn

Starches are polysaccharide granules extracted from corn. Their modification with n-octenylsuccinyl (n-OSA) group through esterification transforms them into sensory enhancers as they become more hydrophobic & oil-absorbing.

In emulsions, n-OSA starches reduce the perceived oiliness, the tackiness and give the skin a powdered & matte finish

Applications

Body Milk
Hand Cream

Benefits

Powdered After Feel
Reduce Greasiness And Tackiness
Mattifying Effect

Characteristics

INCI: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate
Powder
Recommended Use Level : 1-3%

Emultop™ Velvet IP

Emultop™ Velvet IP is an easy to handle in cold & hot conditions primary emulsifier enriched with Phosphatidyl Cholin (PC).

Under Fluid form, Emultop™ Velvet IP allows to emulsify up to 20% of medium to polar vegetable oils.

Emultop™ Velvet IP gives a velvety smooth touch on the skin with second skin effect and improves active ingredient bio-availabilityEmultop Velvet IP is extracted from soy, 100% nature-derived1, with NGM guarantee thanks to Cargill’s fully integrated Identity Preserved (IP) system being certified by SGS. This product is part of Cargill’s comprehensive offering of high quality products from trusted sources & origins.

1according to ISO 16128

Applications

Face day cream: 0.2-3%
Body milk: 0.2-2%
Face serum: 0.1-1%

Grades

100% nature-derived1
Biocompatible & biomimicry emulsifier
Skin barrier restructuring emulsifier
Source of essential fatty acids
Safe for all skin types

Characteristics

INCI name: Lecithin
Appearance: Brown viscous liquid
Cosmos approved
pH range: 4-8
Dose of use: 0.1-3%

Floraesters® 20

Floraesters® 20 is derived exclusively from jojoba oil, a unique botanical source of liquid wax esters.

Floraesters® 20 provides a rich emolliency with a melting point slightly above skin temperature. Floraesters® 20 is an ideal choice for skin, sun, baby, lip, body, hair, and anhydrous formulations.

Floraesters offer formulators a wider range of melting points, more elegant textures, and better aesthetic benefits than other nature derived* butters, derivatives and emollients.

Floraesters® 20 is a member of the Floraesters family, which also includes Floraesters® 15, 30, 60, 70 and IPJ. Floraesters® 20 may be used individually or blended with other Floraesters to achieve a desired texture.

Applications

Moisturizing cream
Anionic-free shower gel
Anti-dandruff shampoo
Ultra-mild bath gel

Grades

Improves skin barrier function**
Improves skin hydration
Reduces appearance of skin redness
Non-greasy emolliency
Highly occlusive
High oxidative stability
Biodegradable***
Low color and odor
Non-GMO

* According to ISO 16128

** Cargill has not tested Floraesters® 20 in final OTC drug formulations. Compliance with FDA regulations is the responsibility of the customer

*** According to OECD

Characteristics

INCI Name: Jojoba Esters
Appearance: Soft, creamy paste
Composition by INCI Name:
- Jojoba Esters: 99,5%
- Tocopherol: 0,05%

Floraesters K-100® jojoba

Jojoba oil is a cold-pressed array of wax esters from the seeds of the desert shrub Simmondsia chinensis and has a beautiful natural golden colour with a slightly nutty odour. It has very good effects on the skin, acting as a moisturizer and emollient agent to improve skin elasticity and suppleness. In hair care applications it soothes the scalp, repairs breakage and controls dandruff.

Floraesters® K-100 Jojoba is a versatile ingredient comprised of hydrolyzed jojoba esters and jojoba esters, derived from jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis). It provides multiple benefits to the skin, such as moisturizing, repairing and protecting the skin barrier, while giving the skin an aesthetic softness and emollience due to the jojoba.

Its substantivity makes it well-suited to trap molecules such as glycerin and other glycols on the surface of the skin, thus improving its moisturizing potential. They can trap other small molecules on the surface of the skin or hair, improving the effectiveness of the product. Their substantivity also makes them capable of depositing on hair fibres, thus maintaining long-lasting conditioning effects on the hair shaft.

They have also been shown to prevent symptoms of irritation and barrier dysfunction (increased TEWL) caused by irritants, pollutants and sensitizers.

Its film-forming properties make it ideal for rinse-off products and products that require water resistance or extended dwell time on the skin or hair. They can provide water resistance, wear resistance and transfer resistance to finished formulas.

They have a pH range from 9-11 but are stable down to a pH of 3. This unique property allows the formulator to neutralize polymeric systems to form a stable gel; they can also neutralize many existing carbomers.

Floraesters® K-100 Jojoba is designed to be used at 1/5 the usage level of Floraesters® K-20W Jojoba. They can be directly added to and dispersed within the oil phase, or pre-dispersed with glycerin, glycols or alcohol.

characteristics

INCI Name: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Aqua)
Appearance: Firm paste
Composition by INCI name: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters: 75-85% / Jojoba Esters: 8-15% / Water: 7-10%
COSMOS approved

applications

Skin Care
Sun Care - Sunscreens***/Sunless Tanners
Hair Care - Shampoos/Conditioners/Dyes
Fragrances
Nonwoven Wipes/Face Masks
Color Cosmetics

Floraesters® 15

Jojoba oil-based emollient with superior oxidative stability, pigment wetter and binder

Jojoba oil is a cold pressed array of wax esters derived from the seeds of the desert shrub Simmondsia chinensis; which has a beautiful natural golden color and a slightly nutty odor to it. Jojoba oils have excellent beneficial effects on the skin, it acts as a moisturizer and an emollient agent. Thus, improving skin elasticity and suppleness. For hair care applications, it is beneficial for soothing the scalp, repairing breakage, and controlling dandruff.

Jojoba oil is not a typical vegetal triglyceride oil, but an array of wax esters.

While jojoba oil has unique and beneficial cosmetic properties. Its utility has been broadened significantly by using it as the base material for the creation of a new family of jojoba esters.

These jojoba esters have demonstrated their capabilities to improve cosmetic, functional and structural properties for a broad array of personal care products.

Floraesters® 15: COSMOS approved emollient, binder, and pigment wetter

Floraesters® 15 is a COSMOS approved multifunctional liquid occlusive emollient composed of interesterified jojoba esters with excellent oxidative stability. It has superior oxidative stability in the presence of iron oxide pigments.

It has excellent pigment wetting properties and therefore it enables higher pigment loading. It also has an excellent slip and spreading properties, along with medium absorption and glossy/shinning effects. It provides the benefits of jojoba oil such as moisturization and conditioning properties for the skin and hair care formulations and therefore delivering a silky and smooth results to the skin.

Considering increasing consumer preferences; Floraesters® 15 has been used in pressed powder formulations to improve pigment color stability and pigment binding rather than dimethicone.

This multifunctional emollient enhances the stability of the formulation and reduces color and odor alternations over time.

applications

Lip care
Skin care
Hair care
Sun care
Baby care
Color cosmetics
Anhydrous products

Grades

Improved pigment wetting
Improved pigment payout
Binder
Carrier
Contribution of emollience in highly pigmented cosmetic systems
Non-greasy emollience
High spread and slip
Moisturizing
High oxidative stability
Noncomedogenic
Biodegradable*
Low color and odor
Non-GMO
COSMOS approved

* According to OECD

Characteristics

INCI Name: Jojoba esters
Appearance: Liquid at or above 25°C
Composition by INCI Name: Jojoba Esters (99.95%) / Tocopherol (0.05%)

Floralipids Moringa Oil Refined

Moisturizing and hydrating oxidatively stable oil

Floralipids Moringa Oil Refined is a refined triglyceride oil obtained from the plant species Moringa oleifera. Crude moringa oil is extracted from the moringa seeds via mechanical crushing. The crude oil is then carefully refined, bleached, and deodorized to produce a low colour and odour product.

It has a unique fatty acid profile, rich in oleic and behenic acids, and contains exceedingly low levels of polyunsaturates. It is shown to be one of the most oxidatively stable botanical oils commercially available and can extend the shelf life of finished products.

It provides rich emollience, a luxurious silky skin feel, skin hydration, nourishment, moisturization and softens dry skin; ideal for use in all applications, especially those used to treat rough, dry skin. Also has been shown to increase hair shine.

It has medium pigment-wetting properties, high slip, low spread, medium absorption and high gloss.

Moringa has benefited humanity since antiquity. Ancient Egyptians used moringa in cosmetics, medicine and remedies for skin disorders. Moringa has also been used in India and Africa as a source of sustenance providing much needed nutrients and vitamins. The moringa tree in Senegal is called the Nebeday, meaning “the tree that never dies,” because of the tree’s ability to grow and survive under many conditions.

Moringa oil and the leaves of the moringa tree are the latest trend in health and beauty. The leaves are sought for their abundance of vitamins and antioxidants and the oil for its stability, functionality and rich emolliency. Moringa oil is found in numerous cosmetics due to its stable moisturizing, cleansing and emollient properties. With high amount of oleic acid, it penetrates deeply into the skin, bringing nutrients to the skin and hair, and helping it to retain moisture.

Applications

Skin care
Hair care
Sun care
Toiletries
Color cosmetics
Anhydrous products
Sticks

Grades

Rich emolliency
Rich in oleic and behenic fatty acids
Silky luxurious skin feel
Oxidatively stable
Extended shelf life
Increased hydration and moisturization
Nourishing
Increased hair shine
Non-GMO
Low color and odor
COSMOS Approved
Nature derived*
Biodegradable**

*According to ISO16128

**According to OECD

Characteristics

INCI Name: Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Composition by INCI Name: Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil (99.99%) / Tocopherol (0.01%)
Appearance: Liquid at or above 25°C
Cosmos Approved: Yes

Florasolvs Sunflower-10

Florasolvs® Sunflower-10 is an excellent way to provide sunflower oil emolliency in water-based formulas. It is a hydrophilic, water-dispersible liquid emollient derived from ethoxylated high oleic sunflower oil glycerides. Its incorporation in formulations leaves skin feeling smooth and soft and it conditions the hair. Primary application areas to date have included body washes, shower gels and facial scrubs in addition to shampoos.

Florasolvs® Sunflower-10 also functions as a fragrance solubilizer, secondary surfactant and emulsifier. It improves refatting and fragrance transfer to skin and hair in surfactant systems without compromising clarity and viscosity. A shampoo formula containing it provides excellent shine and “comb-out” and exhibits a good “tight” foam. Viscosity can easily be controlled by salt concentration.

Florasolvs® Sunflower-10 is ideally suited for clear aqueous products, allowing for many colour addition options. It is of neutral pH, with a refractive index of about 1.460 and HLB 8.0, and can be used in the formulation of micro-emulsions. Suggested use levels for Florasolvs® PEG-10 Sunflower are 1 – 5% in skin care, 0.2 – 5% in shampoos and 0.5– 10% in toners and facial fresheners.

Florasolvs® Sunflower-10 is available as a quasi-drug ingredient, meeting the Japan Pharmacopeia requirements for the category under which it falls. JCIC number: 504340.

Shelf life: 24 months stored in closed containers below 40°C in well-ventilated areas.

applications

Facial cleansers
Facial skin care
Hair conditioners
Liquid hand soaps
Shampoos
Shower gels/ Body washes

Characteristics

INCI Name: PEG-10 Sunflower Glycerides
Appearance: Yellowish liquid
Odor: Typical (slightly fatty)

Grades

Biodegradable
Co-emulsifying agent
Emollient
Feel modification/ Enhancement
Fragrance solubilizer
Hair cuticle protection
Fragrance transfer agent
Plant derived/ Vegetal based
Superfatting agent

Florasun® 90

Refined emollient with superior oxidative stability, easy absorption, and elegant skin-feel

Helianthus annuus or sunflower seed oil is used in several skincare and cosmetic products. It is used for its potential to provide benefits such as decreasing inflammation, replenishing the skin’s barrier, and improving hair loss conditions. It is also often used to help improve the texture and sensory feel of a product by acting as an emollient.

As an emollient, sunflower seed oil works to soften and soothe the skin while also acting as a mild occlusive ingredient. Sunflower seed oil is also commonly used in hair conditioners and other hair products due to its emollient properties, as it has a softening effect on the hair and helps to prevent breakage.

Refined emollient with elegant skin feel and oxidative stability

Florasun® 90 is a natural triglyceride oil with excellent emolliency and superb oxidative stability, attributing to its high oleic content of >85% and low levels of polyunsaturated. Florasun® 90 can extend the shelf life of finished formulations.

Oleic acid, found in skin surface lipids, is the major fatty acid in Florasun® 90 which allows for easy absorption into the skin without the greasy feel on the skin like other oils.

The oil is pressed from the finest sunflower seeds which are carefully refined to produce a low color and low odor product.

Florasun® 90 is oxidatively stable due to its low levels of polyunsaturated and high levels of monounsaturated. Traditional sunflower oil has important levels of polyunsaturated, making it much less stable and not suitable for cosmetics. The stability of Florasun® 90 contributes to a more stable finished formulation.

It also provides pigment wetting and dispersion stability properties making it ideal in color cosmetics or hybrid skin care products. It has also been shown to act as a binder and thus provide better color stability in pressed powders.

Applications

Skin car
Bath and massage oils
Hair care
Sun care
Color cosmetics (foundations, lipsticks, pressed powders)
Anhydrous products
Sticks

Grades

Extended shelf life
Low color and odor
Hydrating properties
Nature-derived
Oxidatively superior to traditional and mid-oleic sunflower oils
Fast skin absorption
Leaves non-greasy residue
Pigment wetting and dispersion stability properties
Binder
Elegant skin feels
Non-GMO
COSMOS approved

Characteristics

INCI Name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Appearance: Liquid at or above 25°C
Composition by INCI Name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (99.95%) / Tocopherol (0.05%)
Cosmos Approved: Yes

Satiagel™ VPC 614

Cosmos approved ingredient to create a semi solid-to-solid texture

Discovers our nature derived* ingredient, Satiagel™ VPC 614 a unique KAPPA Carrageenan, a natural high gelling agent that create brittle solid gel when combining with salt.

Depending on the type and concentration of salt used, you can create semi solid-to-solid gel (Jell-OTM like).

Thanks to Cargill’s expertise, discover how to play in combination with the other carrageenans to enter a new world of texture.

*100% nature derived

Applications

Skin care
Cleanser
Serum
Face Mask
Solid Cosmetics

Grades

High gelling agent
High Transparency
Fresh sensory
Smooth film forming
Sustainability
- 100% nature derived (ISO 16128)
- Sourced through the Red Seaweed PromiseTM
- Readily Biodegradable (OECD 301)
- Good for the communities that cultivated the red seaweed
- Good to preserve the marine environment
- Cosmos approved
- Vegan suitable by vegan.org standards
- Halal & Kosher certified by competent organizations

Characteristics

INCI : Carrageenan/ Chondrus crispus extract
Appearance: Powder form
Charge : anionic
Warm processable (70°C)
Thermoreversible
pH range : 5-9
Dose of use : 0.1-2.5%

Satiagum™️ VPC 430

Discover our nature-derived* ingredient, Satiagum™ VPC 430 a LAMBDA carrageenan, a natural thickening agent that creates a continuous flow & glide to the formula.

Thanks to Cargill’s expertise, discover how to play in combination with the other carrageenans to enter a new world of texture

*100% nature derived

Applications

Skin care
Cleanser
Hair styling
Shaving
Color Cosmetic

Characteristics

INCI : Carrageenan/ Chondrus crispus extract
Appearance: Powder form
Charge : anionic
Cold water dispersible & processable
Compatibility : electrolytes, alcohol up to 30% & mixed micelles (anionic/amphoteric/non ionic)
pH range : 5-9
Dose of use : 0.1-2%

Satiaxane VPC 911

Bio-fermentation: a way to explore efficient and eco-conscious cosmetic products

Bio-fermentation process is a low-carbon footprint solution. By selecting the right micro-organism and the right substrate, possibilities are limitless. A wide range of actives are coming from bio-fermentation like radiance enhancers, energizers and wrinkle fillers but we see more and more complex functional ingredients emerging in the beauty and personal care market for playing on the texture, stabilizing, emulsifying or improving performance (solubilizer, deposition aids) of different products. At Univar Solutions, we propose the following technology coming from bio-fermentation:

Sclerotium gum & Xanthan gum from Cargill Beauty
Sophorolipid & Dextran derivatives from Dow

Satiaxane™ VPC 911: The vegan suitable & COSMOS-approved thickener for conscious consumers

COSMOS-approved cold processable anionic thickener. It is produced in France through a process of aerobic fermentation of sugars with strains of non-GMO Xanthomonas campestris. Sources in the fermentation broth are of 100% vegetable origin: wheat and sugar beet.

It is a cost-efficient thickener, emulsion stabilization aid and suspending agent (≥1% dose) that produces translucent gels. Depending on the dose of use it is sprayable. It has been shown to have a synergy with StarDesign™ Care to improve foam quantity & quality in toiletries and hair care products. Compatible with alcohol (≤60%), anionic & non-ionic surfactants and stable at a wide pH range (3-12).

Cold process is possible, heating will only make faster the deployment of the thickener. When dispersed in water a premix in glycerin is recommended to avoid lump formation.

Applications

Skin Care
Sun Care
Hair Care
Toiletries
Color Cosmetics

Grades

Thickener
Suspending agent (≥1% dose)
Emulsion stabilization aid
Sprayable properties
Cold/hot processable
Dose of use: 0.1-2%
Stable at a broad pH range (3-12)
Produces translucent gels
Compatible with electrolytes (≤12%) and alcohol (≤60%)
COSMOS approved
Halal, Kosher
Made in France
100% nature derived*
Readily biodegradable**
Vegan Suitable***

* According to ISO 16128

**According to OECD 301B

***According to vegan.org

Characteristics

INCI Name: Xanthan Gu
Appearance: Beige powder
Granulometry: 92% at <75µm (US 200#)
COSMOS approved: Yes
Natural Origin Index*: 1
Biodegradability**: Readily Biodegradable
Vegan***: Yes

* According to ISO 16128

**According to OECD 301B

***According to vegan.org

Satiaxane VPC 930

Bio-fermentation: a way to explore efficient and eco-conscious cosmetic products

Sclerotium gum & Xanthan gum from Cargill Beauty
Sophorolipid & Dextran derivative from Dow

Satiaxane™ VPC 930: The nature-derived thickener for transparent formulations

It is a cost efficient thickener, emulsion stabilization aid and suspending agent (≥1% dose) that produces gels with good to excellent transparency. Depending on the dose of use it is sprayable. It has been shown to have a synergy with StarDesign Care to improve foam quantity & quality in toiletries and hair care products. Compatible with alcohol (≤60%), anionic & non-ionic surfactants and stable at a wide pH range (3-12).

Cold process is possible and heating will only make faster the deployment of the thickener. When dispersed in water, premix in glycerin is recommended to avoid lump formation.

Applications

Skin Care
Sun Care
Hair Care
Toiletries
Color Cosmetics

Grades

Thickener
Suspending agent (≥1% dose)
Emulsion stabilization aid
Good to excellent transparency
Sprayable properties
Cold/hot processable
Dose of use: 0.1-2%
Stable at a broad pH range (3-12)
Compatible with electrolytes (<12%) and alcohol (≤60%)
COSMOS approved
Halal, Kosher
Made in France
100% nature derived*
Readily biodegradable**

* According to ISO 16128

**According to OECD 301B

Characteristics

INCI Name: Xanthan Gum
Appearance: Beige powder
Granulometry: 92% at <180μm (US 80#)
COSMOS approved: Yes
Natural Origin Index*: 1
Biodegradability**: Readily Biodegradable
Vegan***: No

* According to ISO 16128

**According to OECD 301B

***According to vegan.org

StarDesign™ 05340

Sensory enhancer made from corn

Starches are polysaccharide granules extracted from corn. Their modification with n-octenylsuccinyl (n-OSA) group through an esterification transforms them into sensory enhancers as they become more hydrophobic & oil-absorbing.

In emulsions, n-OSA starches reduce the perceived oiliness, the tackiness and give the skin a powdered & matte finish.

Applications

Body Cream
Make-Up
Hand Cream
Dry Shampoo

Benefits

Extra powdered afterfeel
High flowability
Reduce greasiness and tackiness
Mattifying effect
High hydrophobicity

Characteristics

INCI: Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate
Powder
Dose of use: 1-30%

Sustainable Cocoa Butter

A unique emollient that provides a responsible experience

Cargill Beauty's sustainable cocoa butter is an excellent opportunity for personal care manufacturers to develop products with a rich sensory experience, backed by a strong sustainability program. Compared to other emollients, such as shea butter and cocoa butter that demonstrates a unique crystallization to improve the sensory appearance, viscosity and texture of the final formulation. In addition, the rapid melting behavior of cocoa butter results in a light, gliding sensation on the skin.

From at-home wellness to relaxing beauty rituals in the bathroom, today's consumers are seeking high-level personal care experiences. With the pandemic disrupting their travel plans, they want to experience the world from the comfort of their home and indulge in an Insta-worthy experience that will engage all their senses.

Applications

Sustainable cocoa butter is a high-efficient raw material used in a wide range of applications, including:

INCI Name: Theobroma cacao seed butter
Appearance: White butter
Odor: Lavender (floral)
Melting Range (°C): 30 - 34
Origin: West Africa (Ivory Coast, Cameroon, and Ghana)
Hand Cream: 5 – 15%
Skin & Hair: 3 – 10%
Lipstick care: 4 – 25%

Grades

Better environmental impact
Relieves dry skin
Vegan friendly **
Halal & Kosher***

*Literature data

**Suitable by vegan.org standards

***Certified by the competent organizations

Characteristics

White & deodorized cocoa butter
Fast melting and slippery on the skin
Less shiny, less sticky, and smoother (skin care)
Nourishing, smooth (hair care)

BotaniButter™: The 100% naturally derived creamy wax emollient

Naturally derived creamy wax emollient with a silky sensory and various skin care benefits

BotaniButter™ is a 100% naturally derived and COSMOS approved creamy wax emollient derived from botanical sources of palm, mustard and rapeseed.

This creamy wax melts at application (MP: 34-37°C) and offers an elegant sensory experience, both at application and at dry down, by providing a silky soft feel and a smooth spreadability. It is a natural alternative to silicone wax that provides comparable sensory and textural attributes with the additional benefits of increased hydration and improved stability profile as compared to the silicone wax benchmark.

BotaniButter™ has been shown to enhance skin hydration, promote skin barrier protection, boost skin barrier recovery and reduce appearance of erythema.

This wax emollient ester will provide rich texture and in sticks it can provide appropriate payout without loosing stick strength when incorporated with wax materials. Due to its unique melting point it will provide pleasant shine on lips after the application.

Applications

Skin Care
Sun Care
Hair Care
Toiletries
Color Cosmetics

Benefits

Offers exceptional silky soft feel
Provides smooth spreadability
Enhances skin hydration
Promotes skin barrier protection
Boosts skin barrier recovery
Reduces the appearance of redness in irritated skin
Relieves dry skin
Good oxidative stability
Biodegradable*
Nature-derived**
COSMOS approved
Non-GMO

* According to OECD 301 B

**According to ISO 16128

Characteristics

Typical properties BotaniButter™

INCI Name Behenyl/Oleyl Behenate/Oleate Esters (NA & EU)*
Appearance Creamy paste
Cosmos Approved Yes
Biodegradable Yes**

* Synthetic Jojoba Oil (China) = BotaniButter™C

** According to OECD 301 B

CocoaDesign™ S

The feel good energizing cocoa ethyl ester emollient

CocoaDesign™ S is a 100% naturally derived, COSMOS approved and highly stable cocoa ethyl ester emollient. It is obtained through the hydrogenation/transesterification of Sustainable Promise Cocoa Butter and ethanol and made with cocoa from the Cargill Cocoa Promise sustainability program.

This buttery solid quickly melts on the skin (MP: 26-32°C) and leaves a light film. It provides a cocooning cushiony feel while evoking enjoyable, pleasure and energizing emotions to formulations as compares to placebo. It also increases longer lasting hydration and enhances skin barrier function by reducing TEWL.

Comparing with Sustainable Cocoa Butter, CocoaDesign™ S provides higher initial hydration (corneometer) and is more slippery during pickup and smoother during application. It also shows a higher oxidative stability and better stability/crystallization over time.

This emollient shows a great compatibility profile with other emollients and mineral UV filters. When using in excess of 15% it is recommended adding another emollient to the oil phase to prevent crystallization.

Applications

Skin Care
Sun Care
Hair Care
Toiletries
Color Cosmetics

Benefits

Delivers rich texture, firmness and cushion effect to formulations
Melts easily on the skin, leaves a light film
Increased long term skin hydration
Enhanced skin barrier function
Non-comedogenic
High oxidative stability
High compatibility profile with other emollients, surfactants and mineral UV filters
Made with Promise Cocoa supported by a sustainable progra
Biodegradable*
COSMOS approved
100% Nature derived**

* According to OECD 301 F

** According to ISO 16128

Characteristics

Typical properties CocoaDesign™ S

INCI Name Hydrogenated Cocoa Butter Ethyl Esters (US/UE)*
Appearance Off white solid
Cosmos Approved Yes
Biodegradable Yes**

*Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter (China) = CocoaDesign™ SC

**According to OECD 301 F

CocoaDesign™ L

The feel good relaxing cocoa ethyl ester emollient

CocoaDesign™ L is a 100% naturally derived and COSMOS approved cocoa butter ethyl ester emollient. It is obtained through transesterification of Sustainable Promise Cocoa Butter and ethanol and made with cocoa from the Cargill Cocoa Promise sustainability program. It is a liquid with wax precipitate (bring to 45-50°C and mix for uniformity).

It is a highly stable, non-comedogenic, light dry oil with a smooth and silky feel; non sticky and non-greasy. It shows good spreadability and provides sunscreen solubilization, pigment wetting and stability properties. It has been shown to increase hydration and enhance skin barrier function. It also evokes cocooning enjoyable, pleasure and relaxing emotions to formulations as compared to placebo.