Why do we typically see claims “for dry and damaged hair” on curly haircare product labels? While curly and textured hair may need an extra touch of care to invigorate health and vitality, the same maintenance is needed for all hair types. Now is the time to valorise curly and textured hair types, to understand their needs and to tell consumers that we’ve got the right products and formulations to embrace their natural hair look.

Straight hair is not the norm...

Getting to know the different hair types

Over the last year, we have seen more influencers on social media showing off their amazing curly hair, and not because they’ve spent hours styling straight hair. A cultural shift toward celebrating our natural hair textures is changing beauty norms around hair types. After years of trying to straighten natural curls, consumers have finally found the right products and routine to let their curls live their best lives.

In hair care, there is no one-size-fits-all model. Our routines are personal, unique to our needs and based on our own style and the natural texture and growth of our hair type. Still, few consumers today know how to categorize their hair type, which is key information when choosing the right products to maintain their tresses, whether curly or straight. Hair types can be classified into different categories, as represented by the illustration in Figure 1 showing their variety.

Hair type 1 is straight hair, types 2 are wavy, 3 are curly and 4 are coily. According to research from Mintel, the majority of adults in the U.S. have a non-straight (types 2/3/4) hair types. Hair texture is also important to understand, ranging from fine to medium or coarse, which will also impact the choice of haircare products.

Figure 1: Categories by hair type

There is a desire from consumers to be informed and to educate themselves on their hair types and texture to understand and better choose their haircare products. They are monitoring their hair health more, and this is leading them to try natural hairstyles and seek relevant products (Minteliv).

First seen in skin care, there is now a need to extend the haircare offering to target all hair types and textures.Every type of hair requires a different haircare solution, which will impact the formula of the product and the format: from a nourishing oil to a light milk for instance. Keeping all that in mind, there is a gap in the market for textured hair products and an opportunity for brands to diversify their ranges. In the UK, 32% of adults agree that there are not enough mainstream haircare brands for people with textured hair, according to data compiled by Mintelv. Beyond the products themselves, there is an opportunity for brands to educate and explain why certain formulas are specifically designed for certain types of hair, and to communicate the special benefits of their ingredients. 

First seen in skin care, there is now a need to extend the haircare offering to target all hair types and textures.Every type of hair requires a different haircare solution, which will impact the formula of the product and the format: from a nourishing oil to a light milk for instance. Keeping all that in mind, there is a gap in the market for textured hair products and an opportunity for brands to diversify their ranges. In the UK, 32% of adults agree that there are not enough mainstream haircare brands for people with textured hair, according to data compiled by Mintelv. Beyond the products themselves, there is an opportunity for brands to educate and explain why certain formulas are specifically designed for certain types of hair, and to communicate the special benefits of their ingredients. 

This is also a good material to consider when formulating for curly and textured hair. A cationic cellulosic polymer, this product contains a more hydrophobic backbone (compared to traditional UCARE™ polymer range) offering unique performance benefits. It is bio-derived (>50% bio-derived content), derived from non-GMO wood pulp certified by the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC). It can be used as the principal conditioning agent or in combination with silicones or natural oils; in rinse-off products it can be as efficient as some silicones.

•  A majority of consumers with straight hair finds that UCARE™ Extreme Polymer provides smoothness (statistical difference), ease of combing, hair alignment, shine, anti-frizz effect and overall conditioning on wet hair.

•  A majority of consumers with curly hair finds that UCARE™ Extreme Polymer provides hair alignment, anti-frizz effect and curl definition on dry hair.

Figure 3: Positive results from testing UCARE™ Extreme Polymer on curly hair

Keep it clean, natural and sustainable

Clean, eco-friendly and natural beauty products are a here to stay. In EMEA, Mintel reportsvii that eco/natural claims are above average and rising. In the Americas, eco-consciousness and naturalness is a must, inspiring solid, concentrated and minimal ingredients for new product development. During the COVID-19 outbreak, we saw an acceleration of the at-home personal care movement toward natural hair styles. Using familiar better-for-you ingredients such as avocado oil, coconut oil, argan oil or tea tree oil that promote long-term hair health can be a good way to leverage this shift in focusviii. Integrating natural ingredients into formulated products can also encourage consumers to try the product, especially those looking for an easy solution.  According to Mintelix, coconut oil is still the most used alternative haircare product among Black consumers in the U.S. (42%).

There is increasing demand from consumers to have a wider offering of haircare products to tend and nourish textured hair, including those made with more natural ingredients and eco-conscious formulas.

At Univar Solutions, we are here to support you in the formulation of your next haircare product line. Discover our latest ingredient solutions for hair cleansing and our high-performing and bio-based hair conditioners for all hair types and textures.

There are vast pressures in the hair care space, to give the consumer the desired highly efficient results, according to Mintelvi. Looking at the variety of ingredients available for the haircare segment, it can be hard to make a choice.

By selecting specialty ingredients with high conditioning performance and styling benefits, you have a good starting point to build a new line of haircare products specially designed for textured hair. And if those ingredients allow you formulation flexibility, even better! You can diversify the formats to offer real personalized solutions to consumers.